Let's Talk Fermentation

The Potential of Fermentation 

Lucia Solis, described as a “fermentation designer” who transitioned from wine into coffee, said that not only does fermentation have the potential to increase cup scores but that “when you don’t ferment, it’s like leaving money on the table.”  

However, we as importers understand that fermentation comes with risks to farmers. While the specialty coffee world is always chasing new flavors and fermentations, for farmers, dependable, washed coffees remain their bread and butter. 

Taste-Busters 

Producers Jose Gomez and Pablo Guerrera increased the cup score of one of their coffees by six points--from an 82 to an 88--just by doing experiments with honey processing. Others have seen similar results, including as much as an eight-point change in score.  

Fermentation plays a significant role in coffee’s flavor. While less fermentation might mean fewer opportunities for defects, it also means fewer chances for flavor.  As Solis says, “Even with a highly nuanced climate, environment and processing method, nothing compensates for natural flavors developed during fermentation.” 

A Double Edged Blade 

It is important to note that while the potential for incredible increase in cup quality is there, so is the potential for quality loss due to poor fermentation. The possibility of a significant change in coffee quality can swing both up and down. 

Keeping in mind the great potential of fermentation to enhance coffee flavors or create a phenolic, alcoholic mess, how farmers make the decision to use newer or more complex fermentation methods is indicative of larger patterns of specialty coffee.  

In the specialty coffee world producers who most often benefit from new technologies and processes are those that have the money and time to invest in these processes, as well as the financial ability to fail. For smaller farmers whose entire income depends on a solid harvest, attempting new processing methods that may fail is not necessarily an option. Conversely, producers with a backup income, savings cushion or larger harvest may have more time, beans and money to invest in experimental processing, which can bring higher prices.  In other words, those who might benefit most from increased prices are those who have the least ability to take advantage of them. 

What Can We Do? 

As we work to effect change, we should remain mindful that fermentation is not for everyone all the time. Reliable and clean washed coffees remain the main source of income for most farmers and to push production too far towards unique fermentation methods may have a negative effect on farmer income and sustainability.  

While recognizing that there is a growing--yet still limited--market for experimental processing methods, we as importers and roasters have the potential not only to encourage new fermentation methods but to help alleviate the imbalance between producers who can and cannot explore new fermentation techniques and subsequently reap the benefits. 

One way we can begin to even the playing field between producers is to offer pre-financing contracts that allow farmers to invest in new technologies. We can also enter into longer term contracts with farmers that would allow them to experiment over several years and continue improving their coffee without the fear of losing buyers.  

Another change we can make to encourage the production of interesting and tasty fermented coffees is to work on educating customers about the variety of flavors and experiences that can be gained from fermentation. When customers know more and begin asking for special fermentation methods, especially armed with knowledge about fairer pricing, we can return to producers with the information that special fermentation methods are desired by the end consumer.