About Indonesia

The country has the perfect growing conditions of height, fertile soils and temperature, albeit with a troublesome humid climate. Because it consists of about 17,500 islands, the country has a fascinating biodiversity with various microclimates. Yet, even though the country has a long history in coffee and in colonial times was a pioneer in coffee production, nowadays Indonesia isn’t quite renowned for producing top-notch coffees. Unrightfully, we think, because the archipelago harbors quite some coffee gems with very diverse and intriguing flavors. 

History 

On the historical trajectory of coffee out of Yemen, Indonesia was coffee’s second stop, after India. Coffee was introduced into Indonesia in colonial times by the Dutch governor in Malabar, India. In 1696 he sent a seedling of Coffea Arabica to the Dutch governor of Batavia, the present-day Jakarta. The first seedlings failed to grow due to flooding, so a second shipment of seedlings was sent. The second attempt was a success and in 1711 the first Indonesian coffee was exported from Java to Europe by the Dutch East India Company, or VOC. Exports rose to 60 tons per year. From 1725 to 1780 coffee trading was monopolized by the VOC. The coffee trade was very profitable for the Company, but less so for the Indonesian farmers who were forced to grow it by the colonial government and who were paid too low prices for the coffee. Mid-19^th century, the Dutch East Indies expanded arabica coffee growing areas in Sumatra, Bali, Sulawesi and Timor. In North Sumatra highlands coffee was first grown near Lake Toba, and later on in the Gayo highland near Lake Laut Tawar. In the late eighteen hundreds, large coffee plantations were established on the Ijen Plateau in eastern Java.  

However, disaster struck in 1876, when the coffee rust disease swept through Indonesia, wiping out most of the Typica cultivar. Coffee rust is a fungus that creates the growth of a fine yellow-orange powder-like substance that starts on the underside of the leaves of the plants and that can wipe out entire plantations. The Dutch responded by importing and planting Liberica plants, but the species was also affected by disease. The Dutch colonial government then opted for the more resistant Robusta variety to replant the affected plantations. The varieties Ateng, a Catimor-derived cultivar, and TimTim, a hybrid with a Robusta gen base, were used as well for their resistance to leaf rust. 

In the 1920s smallholders throughout Indonesia began to grow coffee as a cash crop. World War II and the struggle for independence played a big part in subsequent changes in the Indonesian coffee market. Plantations were taken over briefly by the occupying Japanese. After independence, the plantations throughout Indonesia either came under the control of the new government or were abandoned. Many colonial plantation owners fled the country to avoid being arrested. The plantations on Java were nationalized at independence and revitalized with new varieties of Coffea arabica in the 1950s.  

Today, more than 90% of Indonesia’s coffee is grown by smallholders or cooperatives on farms averaging one hectare or less. Much of the production is organic and 19 farmers’ cooperatives and exporters are internationally certified to market organic coffee. Robusta still accounts for the largest part of the coffee production, about 90%, but various arabica species can be found on the archipelago as well, with more than 20 commercially grown varieties of Coffea arabica. 

Growing conditions 

The country covers 1,904,569 km² of land area, with over 18,000 islands of which about 6,000 have been named and of which even less are inhabited. Indonesia’s main islands are Sumatra (473,606 sq km), Sulawesi (189,216 sq km), Papua (421,981 sq km), Kalimantan (539,460 sq km), Java (132,187 sq km). These are also the main coffee growing islands (except for Kalimantan), as they have the altitudes needed for growing quality coffee. 

The coastal regions of the islands consist of swampy plains, whereas the center of the islands are formed by windy plateaus and mountainous volcanic regions. Lying along the equator, Indonesia has a tropical climate, with normally speaking two distinct monsoonal wet and dry seasons. Average annual rainfall in the lowlands varies from 1,780–3,175 millimeters, and up to 6,100 millimeters in mountainous regions. Mountainous areas – particularly in the west coast of Sumatra, West Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, and Papua – receive the highest rainfall. Humidity is generally high, averaging about 80%. Temperatures vary little throughout the year; the average daily temperature range of Jakarta is 26–30 C. 

Wet-hulled process 

Indonesia has a typical way of processing its coffee. The wet-hulled process, or Giling basah in Bahasa, is different from the fully washed process in the way the coffee is handled after pulping. In wet-processing a farm would slowly dry pulped and fermented coffee for days or weeks, usually on a patio or raised bed, or sometimes in a mechanical dryer, down to 10-11.5 % moisture. In this process, the green bean would become the small dried seed we know. The thin parchment shell is removed, preparing the coffee for export. Wet-hulled coffee is also pulped after picking. Next, it is fermented to break down the fruit layer. After overnight fermentation, the mucilage can be washed off. What’s left is wet parchment coffee, with the bean in the parchment layer swollen with water. The clean wet parchment coffee is dried for a few hours until it has about 50% moisture content, after which it is sold to a collector middleman or delivered to a mill. The mill might dry the coffee a little bit more, but in general, they send it to a special machine (the wet-huller) when the coffee still has 25-35% moisture content. This machine uses a lot of friction to take the tightly-attached parchment layer and tear it from the water-swollen green bean, which at this stage is often white and looks nothing like the green bean we finally see. Then the coffee is laid out to dry, unprotected by any outer layer, on a patio, on a tarp, on the road. Drying without the shell is rapid, so the mill is able to sell the coffee and get paid with rapidity. The rapid drying is also a way of dealing with the climate conditions. The high humidity and heavy rains makes drying coffee a hard and long task, so wet-hulling coffees makes the life of a coffee producer a bit easier. However, this process entails quite some risks for the beans, as they are dried without their protective parchment layer and can easily be affected by dirt or other elements in the drying process. 

The wet-hulled process imparts the coffee a peculiar flavor profile: low acidity, thick body, and rustic flavors which, in other origins, could easily be described as defects. 

Coffee growing islands 

Bali 

Generally, Balinese coffee is wet-processed. This results in a sweet, soft coffee with good consistency and typical flavors of lemon and other citrus notes. To create a more distinctive flavor, the wet hulling process is being adopted. In this process, the beans are washed and then partially dried with some of the mucilage intact, before milling.  

Flores 

Flores is one of the Lesser Sunda Islands, tucked in between Sumbabwa and Timor. The terrain of the island is rugged, with numerous active and inactive volcanoes. Ash from these volcanoes has created especially fertile Andosols, ideal for organic coffee production. Arabica coffee is grown at 1,200 to 1,800 meters on hillsides and plateaus. Most of the production is grown under shade trees and wet processed at farm level. Flores is one of the newest origins for Indonesian coffee. Previously, most Arabica coffee from Flores was blended with other origins. Now, demand is growing for this coffee because of its heavy body and sweet chocolate, floral and woody notes.  

Java 

Java’s Arabica coffee production is centered on the Ijen Plateau, at the eastern end of Java, at an altitude of more than 1,400 meters. The coffee is primarily grown on large estates that were built by the Dutch in the 18^th century. The five largest estates are Blawan (also spelled Belawan or Blauan), Jampit (or Djampit), Pancoer (or Pancur), Kayumas and Tugosari. They cover more than 4,000 hectares and the first four date back to Dutch colonial times.  

Java has old plants of the Typica variety, as well as plants of the Jember variety and Robusta-based Ateng and Timor varieties. Ripe cherries are quickly transported to their mills after harvest. The pulp is then fermented and washed off using the wet process, with rigorous quality control. This results in coffee with good body, but with a rather low acidity and little complexity. Java coffees can sometimes be rustic in their flavor profiles, with a lasting finish. At their best, they can be smooth and supple and sometimes they have a subtle herbaceous note in the aftertaste. Some estates age a portion of their coffee for up to three years. As they age, the beans turn from green to light brown, and the flavor gains strength while losing acidity. These aged coffees are called Old Government, Old Brown or Old Java.  

This coffee is prized as one component in the traditional ‘Mocha Java’ blend, which pairs coffee from Yemen and Java. Until the last century, Java coffee had a legendary status, which is illustrated by ‘Java’ being a worldwide synonym for coffee. Mocha and Java coffees commanded huge premiums, often ten to fifteen times more expensive than Brazil coffees in brokers lists from the 1920s.  

Papua 

New Guinea is the second largest island in the world. The Indonesian half of the island was formerly called Irian Jaya. Today, it is known as Papua, and it’s divided into two provinces – Papua and West Papua. The eastern half of New Guinea is the independent country of Papua New Guinea.  

There are two main coffee growing areas in Papua. The first is the Baliem Valley, in the central highlands of the Jayawijaya region, surrounding the town of Wamena. The second is the Kamu Valley in the Nabire Region, at the eastern edge of the central highlands, surrounding the town of Moanemani. These towns have no road access, so everyone and everything comes by foot or air. Both areas lie at altitudes between 1,400 and 2,000 meters, creating ideal conditions for Arabica production. The soil is volcanic, and fertilizers and pesticides are completely unknown. All of the coffee is Arabica (Linie S variety), and it is grown on very small farms, nestled under old growth tropical forest. Since modern technology is slowly emerging, most of this coffee is processed entirely by hand. The coffee is hand-harvested between May and September and processed by farmer`s cooperatives using the wet-hulling technique. The outer skin is mechanically removed from the cherries using rustic pulping machines. The coffee beans, still coated with mucilage, are then stored for up to a day. Following this waiting period, the mucilage is washed off and the coffee is dried for sale. The cooperatives then hull the coffee in a semi-wet state, which gives the beans a bluish-green appearance. This process reduces acidity and increases body, resulting in coffee with heavy body, earth and chocolate notes and a spicy finish.  

Together, these areas currently produce about 230 tons of coffee per year. This is set to rise, as new companies are setting up buying and processing operations. These companies are assisting farmers to obtain organic and fair trade certification, which will significantly improve incomes. The area is extremely remote, with most coffee growing areas inaccessible by road and nearly untouched by the modern world. 

Sulawesi 

The Indonesian island of Sulawesi, formerly called Celebes, lies to the north of Flores. The primary region for high-altitude Arabica production is a mountainous area called Tana Toraja, at the central highlands of South Sulawesi. To the south of Toraja is the region of Enrekang. The capital of this region is Kalosi. The regions of Mamasa (to the west of Toraja) and Gowa (to the south of Kalosi), also produce Arabica, although they are less well known.  

While there is coffee grown at 1100-1200 meters in Toraja, it is possible to find 1600-1800 meter coffee in the more remote corners of the region. Most of Sulawesi’s coffee is grown by small-holders, with about 5% coming from seven larger estates. The small-scale family farms are best characterized as haphazardly-planted coffee shrubs conveniently planted near the houses and along the paths. Coffee production is not a top priority, but rather a matter of supplemental income. Livestock (water buffalo in particular) and rice farming are of a much higher order. The side benefit of the casual nature of coffee farming is that many of the old Typica-derived varieties of coffee are still grown in the region.  

Sulawesi coffees are also wet-hulled. They can be clean and sound in the cup and can display nutty or warm spice notes, like cinnamon or cardamom, with an occasional hint of black pepper. Also present are the typically Indonesian rustic notes, which can be slightly herbal or greenish. Sweetness is found in the best Sulawesi coffees, going hand in hand with the deeply intense body of the coffee. Aftertaste is usually smooth and soft.  

The coffee can also be found under the name Celebes Kalossi. Celebes was the Dutch name for Sulawesi; Kalossi is the old name for the coffee trading market. 

Sumatra 

Coffees from Sumatra are known for their smooth, sweet body that is balanced and intense. Depending on the region, the flavors of the land and processing can be very pronounced. Notes of cocoa, tobacco, smoke, earth and cedar wood can show well in the cup. Occasionally, Sumatran coffees can show greater acidity, which balances the body. This acidity takes on tropical fruit notes and sometimes an impression of grapefruit or lime. 

Lintong and Mandheling 

Lintong coffee is grown in the District of Lintongnihuta, to the south-west of Lake Toba. This large lake is one of the deepest in the world, at 505 meters. The coffee production area is a high plateau, known for its diversity of tree fern species. This area produces 15,000 to 18,000 tons of Arabica per year. Mandheling is a trade name, used for Arabica coffee from northern Sumatra. It was derived from the name of the Mandailing people, who produce coffee in the Tapanuli region of western Sumatra. 

Gayo Mountain, Aceh

Gayo Mountain coffee is grown on the hillsides surrounding the town of Takegon and Lake Tawar, at the northern tip of Sumatra, in the region of Aceh. The altitude in the production area averages between 1,110 and 1,300 meters. The coffee is grown by small-holders, under shade trees. Coffee from this region is generally processed at farm-level, using traditional semi-wet methods. Due to the wet processing, Gayo Mountain coffee is described as higher toned and lighter bodied than Lintong and Mandheling coffees from further east in Sumatra. 

Mangkuraja, Southern Sumatra 

Mangkuraja, in Bengkulu Province, is the newest Arabica production area in Sumatra. This origin has a 150 hectare plantation, as well as small-scale producers. The altitude of the production area ranges from 1,100 to 1,300 meters. The coffee is sun dried on raised beds and wet hulled, using the giling basah technique. 

In The Cup 

As mentioned before, Indonesian coffee is often frowned upon, especially on a cupping table next to bright and acidic Kenyan or Central American coffees. Yet, Indonesian coffee, when processed and handled well, can really be a satisfying alteration to the acidic or fruity coffees from the more popular coffee growing regions. The often present rustic notes definitely aren’t for everybody, but for lovers of coffees with a heavy body, low acidity, often leathery tastes, an overall sweetness and notes of spices with some earthy mustiness, they are definitely worth the try. When you evaluate the coffees within their own frame of reference of taste characteristics typical for the specific area it hails from, you might just as well be in for a surprise. Sure, Indonesia has got its issues in coffee production, but we only select those coffees that are handled properly. The result is in the cup; that’s why the Indonesian coffees we offer have passed a rigorous selection process to make sure you only get the country’s best.